San Ignacio de Velasco

History and Background
San Ignacio de Velasco was founded in 1748, primarily for the benefit of the local Ugareño tribe (who were probably identical or very similar to the Mojo), by the Jesuit Frs. Miguel Areijer, who had been transferred there from his earlier assignment in Concepción, and Diego Contreras. It was settled in part by the inhabitants of a former reducción, San Ignacio de Zamucos, which was destroyed three years earlier. One of the few missions that was not eventually relocated, San Ignacio, along with Concepción and San José de Chiquitos, has always been regarded as one of the three principal Jesuit settlements.

Interestingly, the famous Fr. Martin Schmidt was resident in San Ignacio when the decree to expel the Jesuits was effected. Due to his advanced age, he alone was legally permitted to remain in Chiquitos, although the following year he left, crossed the ocean and died in Luzern, Switzerland in 1772.

In 1830 San Ignacio was named the capital of what was then a much-larger Chiquitos Province, an honour it received from Santa Ana de Velasco. After more than 160 years of utter obscurity, in 1991 the Diocese of San Ignacio de Velasco was erected with San Ignacio as its seat, and Federico Bonifacio Madersbacher Gasteiger, O.F.M. as its first bishop.Today it is the largest town on the Jesuit Missions Circuit, with a population approaching 30,000 inhabitants.

Situated between Concepción to the west, San Matías to the east, and San José de Chiquitos to the south, San Ignacio is a major transportation hub in the Chiquitania. As such, it is served by most regional and national bus lines, and boasts a small aeroport. Its location also makes it an ideal spot for exploring the neighbouring mission settlements of San Miguel de Velasco, San Rafael de Velasco, and Santa Ana de Velasco, which are no more than an hour's drive each. If you find yourself in San Ignacio and want to check these wonderful towns but don't want to make an expedition of it, there are several guides who will take you through each of them and get you back to San Ignacio by nightfall. This is also a good option if you want to see all three but also wish to go to to San José de Chiquitos, as the road there only passes through two of these three settlements (depending upon which route you take).

The last settlement of any size heading east before San Matías on the Brazilian border, in addition to being the capital of Velasco Province, San Ignacio also serves as the primary southern gateway to the incredible Parque Nacional Noel Kempff Mercado to the far north. (But read below for directions!) It is also home to the Universidad Católica Boliviana San Pablo - Chiquitos campus, which is served by the little'known but wonderful Identine Missionaries.

Top off the tank first: Southern access route to Parque Nacional Noel Kempff Mercado

Unless you're making the trip in reverse, San Ignacio will be the third Chiquitos mission settlement, about 273 miles (440 kms) east along a bumpy red earth road (Bolivia's Route 502, if it matters) from Santa Cruz and then through San Xavier and Concepción. Top off your tank before leaving the last surtidor (petrol station) in Santa Rosa de la Roca, about halfway between Concepción and San Ignacio: There are no others along the way. You'll pass the small town of Santa Rosa de la Roca and then the even smaller one of San Roque, where you can grab a meal of chicken and plantain for a few bolivianos, and cuñapé (cheese bread) for less than that, but not much else. After that, the tiny hamlets of La Cruz de Solis, Papayo, and Carmen Ruiz will appear. From the last one, it's about 42 miles (68 kms) to San Ignacio.

After dallying in the Bolivian wilderness, San Ignacio looks very welcoming. The culture is closer to that of Brazil than of Bolivia (don't think so? check the video for details), and the people are some of the friendliest on earth. If you look up "idyllic" in a picture dictionary, you'll see a photograph of the town...or you should, anyway. Hand-carved wooden crosses flank intersections as you approach the plaza, and in the distance is a beautiful (albeit man-made) lake, Laguna Guapomó. It offers boating, swimming, and fishing. The town, as booming as it is thanks to agribusiness interests and rare game hunting, still has a quaint, colonial feel about it...for the moment, anyway.

But for all its beauty, of all the Jesuit mission towns, San Ignacio also is the one most in danger of losing its charm. It is succumbing rapidly to Brazilian-financed development schemes, and one day may become little more than a soya-processing and wood harvesting centre if the locals do not draw the line somewhere. As an example, until just a few years ago, visitors could witness the almost-extinct, beautiful paseo courtship ritual on the town's plaza principal on weekend nights, or watch centuries-old religious processions parade through the town. The first is now a lamented memory and the second may be headed in the same direction, but hey, you'll always be able to marvel at San Ignacio's Soviet-style cement monuments. Those monstrosities aren't going away anytime soon.

No hammer and sickle? One of San Ignacio's Soviet-looking monuments under moonlight

Routes to Parque Nacional Noel Kempff Mercado
Here's where I'm going to ruin some vacation plans.... Yes, San Ignacio is a good jumping off point for tackling the park. But mostly because it is the closest settlement where you can provision yourself before making the trek, and also because the park has a newly furnished information office on Calle Bolivar 87 between Calles La Paz and Santa Cruz. Walk-ins are welcome. There is abundant literature (some of it in English), including an excellent bi-monthly newsletter ("Natura-Noticias"), and if you ask nicely you can get a cool sticker. You can reach them as well by telephone at 962.2747 or 3.3352325 (if you're reading this in Santa Cruz), or by email at turismonoelkempff@gmail.com.

But.... This is not the same as saying San Ignacio is anywhere near the park; it's not. In fact, you need to turn back, heading towards Concepción, and pick up one of two roads to the park, from either Carmen Ruiz (29 miles or 47 kms back) or Santa Rosa de la Roca (49 miles or 79 kms back ).

There are two southern access roads to the fabled park, and both are reached long before San Ignacio. The one closest to San Ignacio is a poorly marked dirt road located in Carmen Ruiz (on the left as one passes the town going towards San Ignacio). However, the better of the two - also dirt - is further back in Santa Rosa de la Roca. But at least this one (also on the left as one leaves the town headed toward San Ignacio) is well marked. You are better off taking this road from Santa Rosa de la Roca, as there is a petrol station there.

The onward journey to the park is a taxing one, and there are no facilities along the way. The nearest stop is Florida (the southern entrance to the park), 124 miles (200 kms) northeast. The two other main entrepôts, Porvenir and Piso Firme, respectively, are still another 32 miles (52 kms) and 80 miles (129 kms) over abysmal "roads".

There is also a once-weekly bus from Santa Cruz to Piso Firme on Trans Bolivia, but this method completely sucks...unless you enjoy being tossed about relentlessly like a human ping-pong ball with no earthly hope of it getting better until you arrive. Try that for 16 hours and see how excited you are about tackling the wilderness.

If you're an idiot, you can go one step further and rent a car (ask for a tank, just in case) in San Ignacio, drive all the way to Brazil, and, if you make it another several hundred kilometres, enter the park through the minimalist hamlets of Cabixi, Comodoro, Pimenteiras, Vila Bela, or Vilhena. And then turn around and do it all over again. See you next year.

Routes to San Matías and Área Natural de Manejo Integrado San Matías
San Ignacio also offers two routes to another, albeit less popular, destination: the northern frontier with Brazil, via San Matías, and along the way, access to the Área Natural de Manejo Integrado San Matías.

The northern road - infinitely the more preferable of the two - runs from San Ignacio and passes through Espíritu. Here one takes a right at the fork, onto the road to San Vicente 74 miles (120 kms) east of San Ignacio. There is a petrol station here. The only other stops along the way until San Matías are the microscopic pueblitos of San Bartolo, Ascención, and Las Petas.

Before San Matías, in Ascención, there is an unmarked righthand turn that leads to the borders of the Área Natural de Manejo Integrado San Matías, but it is poorly marked at best. (Locals will know it, however.) Likewise, in Las Petas one can turn right (again, on an unmarked dirt road) and cut off a few miles, picking up the same access road closer to Candelaria, which is the northern entrance to the territory.

The southern route runs from San Ignacio via Santa Ana and San Rafael, where one strikes due east. This road passes through Arica, Mercedes, and Torno, then forks left to Cerrito (where it crosses the Río Curiche Grande), and approaches San Matías from the southwest. This offers quicker access to the Área Natural de Manejo Integrado San Matías, but otherwise is much more time-consuming. On the other hand, the southern route is more clearly marked (especially in the early stages) as it passes through Santa Ana and San Rafael, which probably accounts for it being better known to cartographers and travellers alike. The biggest problem with this approach is that it washes out more frequently. God help you if it does when you're on it.

These routes parallel each other for a good distance, and there are connecting roads between the two. Thus, one can take the northerly route and later branch off onto the southerly route and still reach the same terminus, and vice versa. The two spots where these connecting roads are most frequently used are Torno (south to north) and Las Petas (north to south).

Wall fresco: San Ignacio Cathedral:

Where to Go
OK, back to San Ignacio. There's plenty to see and do, even after you've taken in the magnificent cathedral. This building, with its famous front façade of the four evangelists, is a reconstruction of the Fr. Martin Schmid-designed original that was destroyed by fire in 1808, and also is the only templo on the Jesuit Missions circuit not declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.

The reason for this is that the edifice is new, a reconstruction (albeit one pretty faifthful to the original except on a few technical points) rather than a restoration of the original. The [second] old church was torn down in 1948, and construction initiated on a third one immediately thereafter, which was finally completed in 1968. That too was demolished in 1974 and the present [fourth] building begun in 1998. In the current templo, only a few items in the sacristy remain from the first work, which is a great pity as the original church here was acknowledged in its day as the most beautiful of all in the Chiquitania. In any case, it now is physically the largest church in the Chiquitos.

As with many churches in the region, there are three altars, and for its sheer beauty, the right lateral one (the Altar of the Immaculate Conception) is one of the most moving in Bolivia. It wouldn't be a bad idea to ring the Archdiocese (962.2011) to ask if you can climb the neighbouring bell tower (all that remains from the hideous third church, thank God), as it affords a good view of the town and lake.

: 18th Century carving of the Immaculate Conception: San Ignacio Cathedral

As with all of the settlements, start with the plaza principal - the tranquil, postcard-perfect Plaza 31 de Julio - and you can't go wrong. To get an idea of what local woodcarvers do on their days off, check out the carving of Bolivian musicians in front of the Miguel Areijer house (now the Hotel San Ignacio) on the square. Then amble over to the Casa de la Cultura (also off the plaza principal, at the intersection of Calles La Paz and Comercio). Admission is free. Also housed here is the Oficina de Turismo (962.2056 - which is the number for the alcaldía, but that's ok; they'll pass you over to the tourism folks). They can tell you what's happening around the area; in fact, the ever-present Jesús Rivero, who seems to function as something of a town historian in search of an audience, would love to do just that. Make sure you have a good hour or two to kill first. It is open only Monday through Friday, not on weekends. As for their "San Ignacio de Velasco: En el Corazón de la Chiquitania" leaflet. It's accurate, free, and up to date, and that's a rare combination in these parts.

Whilst still in the centre, check the new alcadía, on the same side and to the left of the heladería. Not that there's much in it to interest a visitor, but the building itself is one of the better examples of the modern Chiquitania style, with ornate vegetal border ornamentation in natural hues. It's really quite nice, and complements the older Chiquitania style employed on the diocesan buildings on the opposite side of the plaza.

If you happen to arrive when the local choir and orchestra (yes, San Ignacio has both) are practicing (usually the last Saturday of every month somewhere in the cathedral complex), you're in for a treat. Considered one of the best in the country, the San Ignacio choir is made up entirely of children...children who happen to know how to sing in Spanish, Chiquitano, Italian, and Latin. They don't exactly throw down house beats, and you won't hear Shakira, either, but you will hear Baroque- and Renaissance-era religious music aplenty. When they're not performing in town (and every other year at the prestigious International American Renaissance and Baroque Music Festival "Misiones de Chiquitos"), they're on the road...as in London, Madrid, and Paris.

San Ignacio also is home to several ateliers of note. Taller Hermanos Guasase is the absolute best of the top-end woodcarving workshops in the region. They blow away everyone else. Located on Avenida Rosenhammer between Calles Chiquitos and Cochabamba, call ahead to make sure they're open (962.2319); if so, the trip to see Walter and his four brothers and their coterie of expert carvers at work is worth the trek. Everything from Baroque four-poster bed frames to neo-Victorian roll-top desks are available, and they will carve (and paint, if desired) everything to your exact specifications. It's all made from FSC-certified sustainably managed tropical woods, too, so you can't go wrong.

Two other highly regarded artesanías in town are Taller Familia Landivar (962.2039) and Grupo El Tipoy, the latter of which produces exclusively fabrics. All three of these outfits work with Mancomunidad de Municipios Chiquitanos, a Santa Cruz-based non-profit that helps provide better economic opportunities to the area's inhabitants, so you're not only acquiring some beautiful art you'll never see anywhere else, but you're also doing a lot of people good when you buy from one of these groups.

The handful of dollars you spend in these establishments may seem small, but in the larger scheme of things they carry great weight. You may be helping to feed a family, educate a child, or supply medicine to people who otherwise would not have these things. Please do not fall into the trap of buying from US-based distributors who turn a profit at the expense of these native artisans, all the while claiming how much they are trying to help them. This is hypocrisy at its worst.

Laguna El Guapomó at sunset

On the whole, the environs of San Ignacio will not excite (unless you fancy red ochre earth), although abundant tropical wildlife is...or was...everywhere. Much of this fauna is quite rare, and getting more so by the day as foreign game hunters are willing to spend very big dollars to illegally decimate the dwindling population. To date, neither the national nor local authorities have done much to stem the tide, and the killing of rare species continues unabated, in spite of what the government would like non-gun toting tourists to believe.

If you want a nice view of the town and its immediate surroundings, climb the Cerro de la Cruz just outside of town. Or cool off at the northern end of Laguna El Guapomó at the lesser known La Piedritas, a cozy nook with a great liitle cascade and waterpool where one can rent cabins and small motorised boats. (Don't just jump in anywhere, however; there are piranha - which incidentally are nowhere near as dangerous as Hollywood would have us think - in the shallows.) There is also a nice balneario, El Paraíso, near the lake that is owned by the Diocese of San Ignacio and is free to the public on weekends. Here there are pools for adults and children and a small restaurant; it can be a relaxing alternative to the lake, which is usually crowded on weekends.

To the immediate south of the town is El Mirador de La Cruz, which affords wonderful panoramic vistas. Go just before sunset, and you'll think you're in paradise (until you get to Santiago de Chiquitos, that is). Just a bit more than a mile (2 kms) to the southeast along the road to San Miguel is the Sanctuary of the Divine Child (Santuario del Divino Niño). Devout locals make pilgrimages there on the first Sunday of each month, and the top (cerro) also affords some nice views of the countryside.

San Juancito
There are also several indigenous settlements (called comunidades indígenas) in the area, amongst them San Juancito (12 miles, or 20 kms west of town) and San Rafaelcito de Sutuniquiña (3 miles, or 5 kms, heading towards San Miguel) are the best known. You can visit solo or with a guide, and anything you purchase in these communities is a big plus for the locals.

San Juancito is a great spot for a day or overnight trip, and has a nascent eco-tourism initiative that is operated by its inhabitants. This is one of the best opportunities in the Chiquitania to experience life in a Chiquitano village, and should not be missed. For more information on San Juancito, see the Web site above or contact the Casa de Cultura in San Ignacio.

Places to Shop in San Ignacio

Places to Eat in San Ignacio
The following establishments are listed alphabetically, and not in any other particular order. Most hotels and other accommodations have their own restaurants. Room service is generally not offered, except in luxury-class establishments.

Places to Stay in San Ignacio
Heaven forfend that I should make a personal recommendation, but I must do so in the case of the Hotel San Ignacio. Formerly known as Casa Miguel Arejier, the official residence of the apostolic vicar (i.e., bishop), it has been lovingly made over into a beautiful hotel in the classic style (although built in 1999). It has a/c, tv (including cable), serves breakfast, and is a bargain at US$25/night. Run by the Diocese, its proceeds go to working with poor youth of the area.

It also should be said that the category-defying Casa Suiza - calle Sucre, tel. 763.06798 (cell) - merits special mention. The Bolivian family that runs it is wonderful, and makes tourists feel as though they are part of the family. There are several rooms for tourists at reasonable prices, and this is a rare chance to really be part of the local scene as well.

When to Visit San Ignacio

But Does San Ignacio Have A...?

Not only is it one of the few towns in the Chiquitania outside of San José de Chiquitos to have a bank (two, actually, both on the plaza principal), San Ignacio also is your best bet for changing currencies anywhere in the region outside of Puerto Suárez (where you're pretty much taking your life into your hands if you try). You have three choices: Bolivian bolivianos or US dollars, which are accepted everywhere, and Brazilian reais, which are hard to use unless you're headed east towards the border.

San Ignacio (along with Puerto Suárez much further east) is also the only place east of Santa Cruz where you'll find an automatic teller machine (cajero automático locally). In both cases, they are located inside (i.e., no outside access, so go when the office is open) the local Prodem FFP, a hybrid bank/credit union/money transfer agency. In San Ignacio, it's located on the corner of Calles Velasco and Sucre, tel. 962.2099, and is generally open from 0900 to 1200 and again from 1500 to 1800, weekdays only. Prodem allows cash advances on your MasterCard and Visa, but your card must be the credit, not debit, type! In this case, you'll have to see a teller for this function, as Bolivians seem to believe that only a human being who has no way of knowing anything about you or your account, much less a way to access the latter, can verify that your card is active and has funds. If you're into this illogical game and want more abuse, Prodem FFP also has offices in two other towns in the Chiquitania, San Julián (just before San Xavier) and Roboré. These are primarily for local deposits and wire transfers, and do not offer ATMs or cash advances.

Ready to go now? For a downloadable street plan of San Ignacio, click here.